AMC Complete Built Cylinder Head 3 Litre 1KZTE. Why do you need the old unit back if the casting is cracked? 1KZT & 1KZ-TE Cylinder Head Gasket.

Introduction First introduced in 1993, Toyota’s 1KZ-TE was a 3.0-litre turbo-diesel four-cylinder engine. Key features of the 1KZ-TE included its alloy cast iron block, aluminium alloy cylinder head, single overhead camshaft, two valves per cylinder, drive-by-wire electronic throttle control and indirect injection.

Furthermore, the 1KZ-TE engine had a 4400 rpm redline. For Australia, the 1KZ-TE engine was first introduced in the. For the and, in which the 1KZ-TE produced 96 kW, the engine was fitted with an air-to-air intercooler.

Crankshaft, connecting rods and pistons The 1KZ-TE engine had a fully balanced steel crankshaft that had five journals and operated on aluminium alloy bearings. The connecting rods were made from lightweight carbon steel and each rod had an internal oil passage which supplied an oil gallery in the piston. The small-end connecting rod bearings were tapered to reduce mass, while the big-ends had plastic region tightening bolts to maximise clamping force The pistons were made from aluminium alloy and a FRM (fibre reinforced metal) top ring groove to improve wear resistance.

Balance shafts The 1KZ-TE engine had twin counter-rotating balance shafts within the crankcase to cancel the secondary inertia forces that were inherent in an in-line four-cylinder engine. Since each piston reached its maximum speed – both rising and falling – at a point just above the centre of the stroke, the upward inertial force of the two rising pistons was greater than the downward inertial force of the two falling pistons. To offset this, the twin gear-driven balance shafts counter-rotated at twice the speed of the crankshaft. Injection and combustion The 1KZ-TE engine had electronically controlled, indirect fuel injection via fuel injection nozzles that had a double-cut needle.

Fuel was supplied to the injectors via a Denso ‘Generation 3’ (ECD-V3-Rom-D) vane-type fuel pump which featured a spill control valve, timing control valve, fuel temperature sensor, engine speed sensor and correction PROM (Programmable Read Only Memory). The 1KZ-TE engine had swirl type combustion chambers with ceramic-tipped glow plugs. Furthermore, the 1KZ-TE engine had a compression ratio of 21.2:1; the firing order was 1-3-4-2. 1KZ-TE: Overheating Overheating of the 1KZ-TE engine requires urgent attention since it can cause the cylinder head to crack. Overheating may be caused by: • Failure of the viscous fan hub – this is generally noticed by temperatures rising when ascending hills or during stop/start traffic on hot days; • Blockage of the radiator; • Seizure of the wastegate actuator resulting in overboost; • A hole in the heater hose; and, • Too much load on the cooling system – a worn torque converter may contribute to this.

To improve the cooling system, common modifications for the LandCruiser Prado upgrading the radiator and fitting larger exhaust systems. 1KZ-TE: Cracked cylinder head As a result of overheating, the 1KZ-TE is susceptible to cracked cylinder heads. Symptoms of a cracked cylinder head include: • Small bubbles in coolant system, pushing coolant into the overflow bottle; • Consumption and discolouration of coolant; • Rapid overheating; • Rough running; and, • A loss of power. If the cylinder head has cracked, the turbocharger is susceptible to overheating – this may cause excessive movement of the shaft and allow the blades to hit the housing. It is recommended that the cylinder head be replaced with a genuine Toyota head since there have been reports of casting faults in non-genuine products.

Please note that pressure testing the cylinder head does not always reveal a problem.

Well, the verdict is in - the head on my 1KZ Prado is cracked and is to be replaced. I would like to collect some stats on how many other people this has occurred too. Really interested in 'this happened to me', rather than 'I have a mate who knew someone' stories. The problem has occurred within the 3 month statutory warranty period, but I get the feeling that the Toyota dealer is having a bit of a wriggle and I'd like some information as ammo if they start to argue.

Vehicle is an '01 TX TD auto, I bought it with 95K and it has performed faultlessly until the head gasket quit very suddenly. It stated to idle rough, first thought was bad fuel/pump/ electronics, few minutes later temp shot up so I shut it down. Leaking water into number 3 cylinder. Any info appreciated. Well, the verdict is in - the head on my 1KZ Prado is cracked and is to be replaced.

I would like to collect some stats on how many other people this has occurred too. Really interested in 'this happened to me', rather than 'I have a mate who knew someone' stories. The problem has occurred within the 3 month statutory warranty period, but I get the feeling that the Toyota dealer is having a bit of a wriggle and I'd like some information as ammo if they start to argue. Vehicle is an '01 TX TD auto, I bought it with 95K and it has performed faultlessly until the head gasket quit very suddenly. It stated to idle rough, first thought was bad fuel/pump/ electronics, few minutes later temp shot up so I shut it down.

Leaking water into number 3 cylinder. Any info appreciated Hi I realise your original message was a while back, but I thought I'd drop you a line anyways!

I have a '00 GXL Prado I went to get my 1KZTE head serviced at a reliable machine shop in my region and they denied me. Instead I had to buy a new head which was over $2000. Apparently the manufacturers went as skimpy as they could with the wall thickness in the casting of the heads to save money. This doesn't leave any room for machining to be done and to go on to be reliable - they are high compression and need the full wall thickness. This bloke said you wouldn't get to the next town as she'd crack the head and die if I got him to machine it. He's not the kind of bloke to just say stuff like that either - he's a tradesman, not a salesman! I don't think you are on your own with a cracked head on a small japanese diesel (not only prado's), but i reckon you were real unlucky being only just out of warranty.

I hope she's going strong for you now. Either that or she's someone else's problem now! Realise your message is over 12 months now but I have same problem and wonder how you got on getting any documented statements about weakness in Prado diesel head walls. Mine over heated suddenly and diagnosis was cracked head. All other cooling components tested ok. Head testing claimed internal crack between coolant chamber and exhaust valve port.

Extended manufacturers warranty claim being denied because 'heads just don't crack by themselves'. But according to reliable mchanics in specialist 4WD centres this appears to be common occurence for this model - and supported by views of others on this site.

Where do we get documented evidence that this is a faulty component, not caused by a failure of some other cooling component? I have seen this 3 times before (customers rides). Good luck trying to find any documentation stating pre-existing issues with the 1KZ heads. The 1st head we ever did 2001 (dealership), we did it 3 times as the head was skimmed and tested (cold) ok. Fitted and once warm bubbles through cooling system. Got the machining company (i'll call them EM) up to check before restrip (they had not seen these heads before). Gave back to EM, and all was ok, just slight warp from removal, so reskim slightly.

Username And Password Rapidshare Premium Account 2012 Toyota on this page. Same thing happened. Virtual Breadboard Full Cracked Softwares. Toyota aust couldn't/wouldn't give us any info as to what to look for, so checked out the forums (back then), to find it had happened before elsewhere in the world (NZ from memory).

Then we found out that if the head was heated to operating temp, then checked, that we had a crack behind the pre-combustion chamber. Once we found this, toyota were more forth coming and supplied a new head.

Fitted up (customer was:evil: over time taken) and problem solved. The next 2 vehicles, we had EM check heated heads and both the same problem. So we got new heads (still under new vehicle warranty). Hadn't seen any after about 2003, so hopefully they fixed the cause. This is a post which maybe someone could help with - otherwise it may at least help someone else. I have a 2003 diesel Prado bought from new - done 105,000 kms fully serviced t/out.

About a month ago, while starting a holiday, the engine starting overheating while towing a caravan after 150km. The cause turned out to be combustion emissions getting into the cooling system causing coolant loss via the radiator expansion tank. Took to Toyota dealer who did TK test and found no problem. Had cooling system completely tested, repeat of TK test (I now know is pretty u/s anyway.) etc - no-one could confirm the problem - assumed radiator cap was the issue, took off again with new cap - but same problem at 150 km. The actual sequence of events with Toyota and other mechanics is too long and frustrating to recount. The upshot is that no-one has been able to diagnose the cause of the problem. No water in oil or vice-versa.

Turbo taken off line from the cooling system - combustion gases still entering cooling system. The head has been off twice, pressure tested in heated bath with dyes, ultra violet light 3 times - nothing. Cylinder 'liners' (they are not actually lined) seem ok from visual inspections. No signs of scores or marks on the head gaskets. Two noteworthy events during all these diagnostics were 1. After hard run, while at idle, copious steam began pouring from ehaust pipe but engine seemed to run normally - haven't been able to repeat this event since 2. After hard run, next morning with cold engine, taking the radiator cap off led to very obvious release of compressed air.

It seems to me that there is a hairline crack in the head that only opens up when the engine is actually operating but closes very quickly when engine cools. I can drive the vehicle as hard and long as I like with the radiator cap loose so it allows the gases to be released without throwing coolant, without a hint of overheating. At this stage, I am getting a new head (Chinese - because $$$'s are now mounting up) put in, in the hope that it is a head issue that hasn't been able to be confirmed from the available out-of-vehicle tests. If anyone has any ideas on the problem, it would be appreciated - otherwise I'll do another post when the new head is fitted and I know for sure whether it was the head or not.

Seems the old 1KZ diesels are suffering a contageous outbreak of cracked heads. After months of trying work out why I had an intermittent rough idle on cold start which involved changing glow plugs and the primer pump assembly, we find she has a cracked head. Seems there are several cracks in all four cylinders. The thing I found surpsrising is she never overheated, lost power, etc. Although one of the symptoms included a very thirtsy radiator when inspected, there was nothing to suggest a head or gasket problem in day to day use. So after 167000 km and around $4000 to get it replaced it should all be good for another few years. Hi, I have a Mar 2001 1KZTE that just suffered a cracked head.

It cracked underneath No4 cylinder pre combustion chamber. Vehicle never overheated, has done a lot of towing, never used all, no change at all in performance.until I heard bubbles in heater (in Alice Springs). It was blowing top of radiator empty into coolant bottle. Limped to Darwin and got it fixed by McIvers (Peter - good guy)head reconditioners. They sourced a new bare head and fitted my bits to it. Mechanic Dave Cooper did the spanner work (also great guy). All up cost - $2950.00.

Now headed back to Perth. I think I have the cracked head too.:cry: Water temp is always been normal and it still is, but yesterday when hot it started to make steam and bubbles when radiator cap is taken off. When cold, everything is normal. It is started poorly some mornings lately (makes smoke and start with 3 cylinder few seconds). Maybe there is hairline crack in some cylinder and leaks water in it. I have added 2 liters of water within 2 weeks now. What do you think about these cheap chinese heads?

Worth of trying? David Pitt, did you got it installed?